Miraku at Umeda, Osaka

A long-standing Shin-Umeda Shokudogai izakaya pouring regional sake alongside fresh fish.

Miraku, written in kanji as 'flavour pleasure', is one of the veteran counter izakaya of the Shin-Umeda Shokudogai alley, having traded for roughly as long as the alley itself. Now run by a third-generation owner and his wife, it pairs fresh fish with a thoughtful line-up of regional sake in a snug space of counter and tatami seating. The display case of high-quality fish sets the tone, and the blackboard fills out with adult-pleasing snacks - mentaiko wasabi-zuke, bonito salt-tataki and the like - that invite a long, exploratory drink. Bikan chicken and other carefully sourced ingredients round out a menu designed for sake lovers rather than quick refuelling. For the Go Umeda team this is a classic Osaka evening: a small counter, a friendly owner and a glass of something good. Come curious, let the couple behind the counter guide you, and you will understand why this old hand still draws devotees to the alley.